EATER Los Angeles
stories by Jenn Tanaka
Ototo
1360 Allison Ave., Los Angeles
Ototo is the ultimate L.A. destination for sake aficionados. This nondescript Echo Park restaurant serves sake on tap, including special seasonal releases from Japan. The ever-changing menu melds chef Charles Namba’s childhood memories of his mom’s yoshoku cooking. The food is decidedly Western, but the style has deep roots, originating from Japan’s Meiji period in 1889. Think: potato salad with fried capers and Kurobuta pork sausage, crispy panko-crusted Caledonian prawns with house-smoked roe, and rock shrimp okonomiyaki, a crispy egg-based pancake with cabbage, sprouts and bonito flakes. The menu changes often to echo California’s changing seasons and to best pair with what’s being poured.
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“When I was younger, I never thought to reach into the dim sum and the dumplings that I was eating at home.
It was very separate. My home life and my work life/my professional life.
It was my first “Top Chef” when I really started to discover the ability to merge them together. How beautiful those flavors could be.
I think it had a lot to do with me embracing myself and my culture and being proud of these flavors.”
Chef Aaron Sanchez
You’d think that the best part of Fire It Up!, Grand Wailea’s barbecue festival, was when Aaron Sanchez served his roasted pork tacos or when Hawaiian cultural ambassador, Kainoa Horcajo, unveiled a show-stopping Hawaiian imu. The whole farm-raised pig surrounded by sweet potatoes, taro, ulu, corn and sausage was an Instagramable spectacle. It took four men to hoist the feast from a burning pit. Impressive, yes! – but the highlight was savoring third-generation pitmaster Wayne Mueller’s succulent beef ribs. One bite made me appreciate the craftsmanship and skill required to smoke meat. Similar to how the Hawaiians revere their elders, pitmasters like Mueller honor tradition. Recipes equate legacy. You taste this sophistication when you bite into his smoked beef ribs. The only sad part is that I am forever ruined. Now I’m forced to compare every rib hereafter to this mind-blowing barbecue. Thanks, Grand Wailea …